A. The training set can be used on both the 4 channel and 6 channel Honeybee models. Its purpose is to stabalise the helicopter to protect the main blades from damage while the user is learning to lift off or hover.
In the pack you will find 4 small skid set connector clips, these connectors attach to the thickest ends of the skid set (fig. 1). You should have one connector on each end of the skid set.

fig.1
The next step is to feed the bar that holds the orange plastic ball through either one of the two holes on the skid set connector. There is one bar for each connector and all of them will meet together in the middle.
Finally the black circular piece left in your pack holds the 4 bars together securely in the centre of the skid set (fig. 2).
A. The heli will not calibrate if the controller is not set correctly. For it to calibrate you need to make sure the controller settings are as follows:
1. The left control is stick is all the way down
2. The left vertical trim is all the way down
3. The rev. switches on the the front bottom right of the controller are DOWN, UP, DOWN, UP in that order from left to right
4. If you have a 6ch heli you need to make sure the idle switch which is on the top left of the controller is in the off position
Once you have the controller set like this turn the controller on first and then connect the battery to the heli. The red light on the receiver should flash red a couple of times then go green.
If after this it does not calibrate you need to double check the following:
1. The battery for the helicopter is chargedA. If you have a lithium battery you may find the battery will not charge using the lithium charger. Lithium batteries are quite sensitive and if this happens it means the battery has disscharged to much.
If this happens you can post the battery back to us and we will charge it up for you using a direct charger and then in the future you just need to make sure that you don't let the battery get to flat.
It is possible for you to direct charge the battery yourself to correct the problem but THIS CAN BE DANGEROUS and we advise you not to do it unless you know what you are doing. We will not be responsible for any damage or injury caused by direct charging a lithium battery. If done wrong it could cause the battery to explode. If you do decide to direct charge it yourself you should only give it a 5 - 10 minute direct charge using a normal direct charger (like used to charge normal heli batteries etc) and then use the lithium charger to fully charge the battery. WARNING - do not direct charge a lithium battery for more than 10 minutes which could be dangerous and cause the battery to explode.
You can stop this happening again in the future by stopping using the helicopter as soon as the battery is at a level where it does not have enough power to lift the heli off the ground.
A. THE SWITCHES
Idle Up switch:
Idle Up in the off position is for take-off and normal flight. You should not turn the idle up switch on unless you know how to fly.
Idle Up in the on position is your aerobatic or 3d mode. Usually, this is a symetric throttle curve, meaning at full down on the collective, you're at full throttle so you can climb inverted. Then, in the mid stick, which would be 0 degrees of collective, you've still got plenty of power for doing tumbles.
Trainer switch:
This switch will let a second remote (plugged into your remote) take control of your aircraft so long as it's held. The moment you let go of the switch your remote is back in control. Usually, the instructor holds the remote that belongs to the flying aircraft and the student holds the extra remote.
Reverse sitches:
This lets you reverse the responce the servo's move to the sticks. You would use this if right goes left or up goes down, etc...
A. On 6CH radio controlled helicopters (and full-scale helis for that matter), the main blades can change their pitch angle. What this means is that if you sit the heli on a table and look at the tip of one of the main blades, the chordline of the blade can be tilted through a range of angles by the servos. In this sense, the rotor disk of a heli is a bit like a variable-pitch prop on an airplane. If the heli is hovering and you wish to make it climb straight up, you increase the pitch of the main blades, and increase the throttle so that the engine can overcome the increased drag and keep the blades turning at the same speed. The increased blade pitch results in more lift, and so the heli climbs. (With R/C helis, unlike R/C airplanes, engine RPM's are supposed to stay the same over (most of) the throttle range. At high throttle the engine puts out more power, but there is a corresponding increase in the load on the engine due to increased main rotor blade pitch, and so the engine stays at the same RPM's.) This overall increase in pitch that makes the heli climb is called collective control.
So basically on a 4ch helicopter the angle of the blades is fixed but on a 6ch helicopter the angle of the blades changes to give more lift and control.
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